eyelash growth

from eateries selling exotic dishes to tattoo parlours, nightspots and spy cameras and more, there’s more to Pudu than just the famous wet market, writes EWE PAIK LEONG

THERE’S a spot in Kuala Lumpur’s old Pudu area that can aptly be called “animal quarter”. This is because the roads here bear names such as Jalan Gajah (elephant), Jalan Landak (porcupine), Jalan Beruang (bear), Jalan Kancil (mousedeer), Jalan Memerang (otter) and Jalan Rusa (deer).

It’s also interesting because I recall that the Cantonese call Pudu Pun San Par (half-forest). Could it be that the road names came about because these animals were plenty during the “half-forest” days? Pudu was once a hilly area and coffee was planted on its slopes. after the Selangor Civil War (1866-1873), the area was cleared for development. Today, old Pudu clings to its yesteryears in terms of architecture, though new structures are encroaching on its territory. Pudu is synonymous with the Pudu Wet Market. However, I decide not to start my walkabout here. Parking is impossible here, and the area is choked with traffic and pedestrians. instead, I start from Wisma Indah at the end of Jalan Tun Razak where parking is a breeze. the first building that greets me is Buddha Jayanti Temple. Built in 1957, it’s as old as the nation — 54 years. at its entrance are the statues of a kylin (lion with a dragon head), while a four-faced Buddha graces its grounds. Play I spy as I cross Jalan Tun Razak to Jalan Pasar, I catch sight of the yellow dome and minaret of Masjid Jamek Alam Shah. This marks the edge of old Pudu, with rows of old shophouses that date back to the 17th and 18th Centuries. This is also where you can find the roads with the animal names.

At the junction of Jalan Pasar and Jalan Pasar Baharu are several stalls that attract more on-lookers than buyers. some offer colourful koi, red swordfish, rainbow guppy, purple Siamese fighting fish, crimson goldfish and black tortoises — displayed in containers and plastic bags. Fish food pellets, live worms, hamster cages, bird cages, small motors for air-pumps and other paraphernalia add colour to the merry atmosphere. Kompleks E-mart is my next stop. It’s a single-level one-stop centre for all things electrical such as electric guitars, garden lights, disco lights, walkie-talkies, remote-controlled toys, rechargeable fans, video spy cameras, home theatre systems, LED, LCD and plasma TVs. You name it, they have it. Most interesting are the spy cameras camouflaged as a necktie, pen, watch, calculator, pair of sunglasses and even three-pin socket. for both law enforcement and surveillance purposes, these gadgets must surely come very useful. a salesgirl explains: “This three-pin socket spy-camera is useful when placed in a baby’s room as it is voice activated. for instance, when the baby cries, the camera will go into recording mode. So you can see later whether your maid has been abusing the baby.” Wet and exotic Next stop: Pudu Wet Market. Hey, a walk in Pudu is surely not complete without going to the market. for a start, its size is overwhelming. Harried shoppers compete with frantic porters struggling to balance big loads on carts along the narrow alleyways. along Jalan Pasar Baharu you will find dying trades such as Chinese bone-setting doctors and shops selling preserved and fermented vegetables. You can even smell them from a distance.

Pigeon, terrapin, frog, cow’s tongue, pig’s head, dried scallop, dried abalone and baby shark for sale add an exotic dimension to this rectangular hive of activity. Noise, exoticness, strange smells, vibrancy… Pudu Market has bucketfuls of these.

Chow time Before long, it’s noon and the thought of a roast goose lunch springs to mind. I stroll to Lorong Yap Hin for the scrumptious fare. three eateries catch my attention. Strategically located is a stall called Chen Chen HK BBQ Goose. then there are Restoran Siew Ngap Fai (claims to be established in 1945) and Restoran Wei Kee. I leave my choice to chance and go to Wei Kee. with a decrepit porch roof, Wei Kee is fan-ventilated. both roast goose and duck hanging from hooks look appetising. I order a serving for two.

The meat comes with a plum sauce dip and is simply excellent. I find the goose tastes richer and juicier than the duck. Divine protection from Lorong Yap Hin, I make my way to Pudu Plaza, passing Jalan Landak. This old shopping complex caters to niche customers. On the first floor, a section called Antique Square is filled with stores selling Buddha statues and amulets from Thailand. some stores double as tattoo parlours. some people believe that amulets have the power to protect the wearer against evil spirits as well as bring good luck. I see a customer examining a gold amulet closely with a magnifying glass. Out of curiosity, I ask a sales assistant: “how does one choose an amulet?” he explains that Thai monks chant mantras to bless the amulets that can help protect the wearers. also, the Buddha posture on the amulet should suit the wearer’s date of birth. Amulets are not only worn but can be displayed on a car dashboard or hung from the rearview mirror.

Mind-boggling stuff in Pudu Plaza, women are certainly spoiled for choice as several hair salons offer rebonding, perms and styling services at attractive rates. why, you can even perm your eyelashes! On the lower ground floor is a food court and stores selling all kinds of books. Xiao Mei and JC Mini Steamboat are notable eateries here. Get a zing from the various types of otak-otak offered by Xiao Mei: Cuttlefish, fish, crab, fish roll and prawn. JC Mini Steamboat has various interesting sets. Music stores such as Apollo specialise in CDs and cassettes featuring Chinese songs from the 1950s and 60s. from Pudu Plaza, it’s a 20-minute stroll to Shaw Parade along Changkat Thami Dollah. Anchored by herbal retailer Eu Yan Sang, Shaw Parade houses mainly tour agencies and tea stores of which Purple Cane is the most impressive. with its zen-like interior designed to calm the mind, this teahouse is a great place for chatting with friends and sipping tea. I pop into Eu Yan Sang to find a health freak’s paradise that boasts of a wide array of supplements including a most unusual item, anti-stress biscuits! There’s also a collection of flavoured vinegar such as black bean, pineapple, plum, brown rice, propolis and apple. Tucked inside the store is Zun Kitchenette which serves excellent herbal soup. another eatery is Hei Lui Ton Restaurant on the third floor. Shaw Parade bursts into a fireball of energy at dusk when Rich Club explodes with live performances of Mandopop and Cantopop. in my mind’s eyes, I see girls, girls, and more girls in bare-back tops and body-hugging jeans gyrating away on the dance floor.

Eating and partying Changkat Thambi Dollah is considered the wai sek kai (glutton street) of old Pudu. a string of yummy eateries tempt me — Chongqing Sichuan Cuisine, Restoran Chong Kok Wah Tha Guan, Fong Wah Teochew Porridge, Restoran Kar Long, Ah Koong Eating House (famous for fish congee) and a much-patronised stall named Keong Kei Poh Ban (selling doubled-boiled soup such as terrapin, squirrel and coconut chicken). When dusk sets in, nightspots like Lounge Concubines and Passion Island Pub & Lounge heat up the night. Parking rules are thrown out the window as patrons leave cars haphazardly on the road-dividers. There’s also a cluster of cheap pubs on the upper floors of the shophouses. Party animals trawl these places nightly but they’re definitely a different species from those of the half-forest days!

Shaw Parade was once owned by the famed Shaw brothers of Hong Kong